Teherán

The city can be roughly divided into two parts - north and south. The northern districts of Tehran are more prosperous, modern, cosmopolitan and expensive while southern parts are less attractive but cheaper. At the time of the Zand dynasty, it was a little town that was significant from a strategic point of view. The first of the Qajar kings, Agha Mohammed Khan, named Tehran as the country's capital in 1778, and most of its growth started during the reign of a subsequent Qajar monarch, Fath-Ali Shah. The castle that Agha Mohammed Khan had built was to contain the new majestic buildings. At the same time, the city's population doubled. Due to the increasing significance of the city, gates, squares and mosques were built and it was at the time of Nassereddin Shah that the city's master sketch was prepared and modern streets were constructed. Later, huge central squares like Toopkhaneh square (now Imam Khomeini) and quite a few military buildings were built. Even though the Qajar dynasty was in a period of decline, Tehran soon took the shape of a modern city. The structure of large government buildings, new streets, recreation centres, urban service organizations, and academic and methodical centres was started, even as most of the old gates and buildings were destroyed and the city's old architectural fabric replaced by a contemporary one. Tehran has also earned itself an unenviable reputation as a smog-filled, traffic-clogged and featureless sprawl of concrete bursting at the seams with 14 million residents.

For information on Iranian visas please refer the Iran#visas page. By plane Getting there and away: By metro – The easiest way to reach the city center. Line number 8 connects Airport Terminal A with Metro Line 1 (red line) (75,000 rials, that can be used for the full network, Mar 2019). Runs irregularly: 06:50, 08:10, 09:30, 10:50, 12:10, 13:30, 14:50, 16:10, 17:30, 18:50, 20:10. For Metro Line 1 (red) there is a metro from IKA to Tehran during daytime—the trains run hourly (Sep 2017). By bus – To and from the city (e.g. Haram Metro station) every 30-60 min 07:00-23:00. They leave right in front of the main exit and cost 20,000-30,000 rial. There are unconfirmed reports of a shuttle bus operating between IKIA and Mehrabad Airport every 4–5 hours. By taxi – They cost a fixed rate of 800,000 rials (or US$19 or €17 as of Nov 2025), ask at the taxi counter. The drive to/from the city center takes 45 minutes without traffic, but can take upwards of 90 minutes with traffic. There is a booth organizing taxis right outside the arrivals hall. You can also bargain with taxis dropping off passengers at the arrivals hall because otherwise they would have to go back to Tehran empty. Taxis to the nearest metro station (Haram-e-Motahhar) cost 500,000 rials. Shuttle taxis and green minibuses operate between the airport and Shahed Station on the red line of the metro. This can be a convenient option going to the airport from town, but finding the shuttle taxis at the airport will be difficult as many don't stop there.

Q714823 Getting around traffic-clogged, sprawling Tehran is a true test of patience. While taxis are your best bet, they are pricier here than the rest of the country. A large local bus network will also take you almost anywhere you need to go, as long you can make sense of the routes and Persian line numbers. The true star of Tehran's transport system, however, is the metro. By bus Tehran has an inexpensive but confusing bus network. Some require prepaid contactless card (min 5,000 rials), which can be bought from booths beside the bus stops and metro stations used when you get off the bus, and some should be paid by cash (ranging from 1,000-4,000 rials). The buses are partitioned in two sections, men-only (the front section) and women-only (the back section). In the BRT lines, the women-only section is at the front. Also, the fee is paid on the station, using the prepaid contactless card (shared with Metro), or paying to the guard. Since bus numbers, route descriptions and other information are in Persian, your best bet is to look confused at a bus terminal; a local will surely stop to help. Each bus line has a certain and almost invariable path but only people know exactly which bus stations exist for a certain road. You shouldn't expect a map or guides even in Persian showing the bus network or bus stations. Even asking the bus driver wouldn't be a great help for you to find your way either.

Monuments Historic sites thumbnail|Saadabad Palace, Tehran Museums Murals A1one (aka Alonewriter, tanha) graffiti and street art works are a feature of Tehran's urban space. A famous local graffiti artist is at the centre of controversy about whether his work is art or vandalism, and you can see his early works on the Tehran-Karaj Expressway, on the southern side walls UP in Ekbatan and Apadana districts. A more recent work of stencil art is found at the entrance of the Saba Art Institute. - Kolahstudio-an Art Basement, Iranian Underground Arts. Gardens

Parks and recreation thumbnail|350px|The Tabiat Bridge Tochal Mountain Tochal Mountain has a ski resort and is a great place to get some scenic views over Tehran and enjoy a little peace and quiet in contrast to the bustling city. From the Tochal peak, one has a spectacular view of the Alborz range, including the 5,671-m (18,606 ft) high Mt. Damavand, a dormant volcano. Tochal is the world's 4th highest ski resort at over at its highest 7th station. The resort was completed in 1976 shortly before the overthrow of the Shah. Here, one must first ride the eight kilometres (five mile) long gondola lift, which covers a huge vertical. The 7th station has three slopes. The resort's longest slope is the south side U shaped slope which goes from the 7th station to the 5th station. The other two slopes are located on the north side of the 7th station. Here, there are two parallel chair ski lifts that go up to 3,900 m (12,795 ft) near Tochal's peak (at 4,000 m/13,125 ft), rising higher than the gondola 7th station. This altitude is higher than any of the European resorts. Usually people get to the top using cable car. Embarkation point of which is at the . However, if you're energetic (or strapped for money), you can simply hike all the way up. You can also start walking and hop on one of the telecabins at the next station when you get tired. If going to the top, bring a jacket, even in summer, as the summit is 4,000 m above sea level so it can be chilly.

Money exchange For information on Iranian currency see Iran#Buy. You can exchange your currency in most banks after filling out between two and five forms, but the exchange rate in exchange offices (sarraafis) is always better than what is offered by banks. It is much advisable to go to one of these (close to Jewels Museum). Such offices can also be found in other parts of the city, but are far more scattered. Ask them to show you a copy of their license, issued by the Central Bank of the country and/or the local guild. A list of licensed sarraafis of the whole country, in Persian (Farsi), can be found here. This list includes phone numbers and addresses as well as license numbers and dates. Also, most exchange offices in Tehran don't exchange before 09:00, when the daily rate gets fixed. Do not exchange your money with one of the many individuals offering to exchange along Ferdosi St. It is much riskier and illegal. They might be criminals offering counterfeit money. As for March 2019, exchange offices in Tehran were not exchanging, and they announced lower rate than at the airport. The best rate was (surprisingly) at the airport, and higher than stated at XE Currency Exchange. Accommodation can be paid in euros, so you do not need to exchange all the money for the trip. In March 2019, they were changing 151,000-153,000 rials for €1; 170,000-173,000 rials for £1; 139,000 rials for US$1 (dollar rate as of 26 Apr 2019) - at the airport, first floor (departures). Bazaars and shopping malls Visit the Bazaar, very appropriate for shopping.

Prices quoted on the menu may exclude an 8% tax, a 10-15% service charge, and a 10% tip. Be prepared to add as much as 1/3 to the prices quoted on the menu. Budget You'll find cheap & good enough abgoosht stew in any of the places they call ghahvekhuneh (قهوه‌خانه) which you can find in any non-strictly-residential area. Just ask for a ghahvekhuneh or get this قهوه‌خانه printed and show it. Nice traditional working class ambience as a rule. You can find several food courts around Tehran with a variety of cuisines from Thailand, India, Italy, China and Turkey. Sharafol-eslam is a restaurant in the Bazaar. It is famous for its kebabs and chicken. It gets really crowded though, which requires some patience. Mid-range Splurge Confectionaries

For information on popular drinks in Iran, see Iran#Drink. Alcoholic beverages are illegal in Iran, other than some allowances for ritual use by Jews and Christians. Coffee shops Coffee shops are a great place for people watching as well as drinking. There is a string of coffee shops on the south side of Jomhuriyeh Eslami Ave, a couple of hundred metres west of Ferdosi St. You can stock up on coffee beans and related paraphernalia, or even sample a cup for 4,000 rials. Cafe Naderi - serves coffee, tea and pastries to a mix of Tehran's intelligentsia and bohemian elite. It's a great place to sit and watch hip young guys eyeing gossiping girls while old men reminisce about the "good ol' days" under the Shah. Crystal Coffeeshop (at the top of the Borj-e Sefid Hotel) along Pasdaran Ave, Definitely worth a visit if in the area for the relaxing drink and view. Tea houses Azari Traditional Tea House - Just north of the train station. A bit far from the center but worth the trek. The atmosphere here is unique, from the moment you enter from the beaded doorway. This is a popular hangout for people of all ages. Features an eclectic collection of water pipes and tea pots. Gandhi Shopping centre. For trendy cafes filled with liberal Iranians. You will find about ten coffeeshops as well as a few very good restaurants, including Monsoon. Juice bars In many places you can find fresh sickly-sweet carrot juice - as well as some other juices - for just 30,000 rials a cup. By most main bazaar in Tehran you can get a drink of blended honeydew melon with ice and sugar.

The old-styled Mosaferkhanehs and budget hotels are often low quality and overpriced. The reason is that Iran has had very limited exposure to the outside world. In many low budget places there are no European toilets or even no toilet paper and staff can be rather unfriendly with no English-speaking ability. However, a couple of modern hostels have opened in Tehran. Budget Mid-range Splurge

For information on mobile phone operators and using the internet in Iran, see Iran#Connect You need to use a proxy server, VPN or a software like Freegate or Psiphon to access Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and some websites; otherwise, you might see this page which shows that the site you want to access is filtered and blocked by the judiciary system. You also need to use Freegate to check your bank account balance; otherwise, your account might get blocked due to the sanctions against Iran. Internet cafés Ferdosi Coffee Net - Enghelab Ave, (a few doors east of Ferdosi Square) is hard to find (look for the small sign plastered to a building) has two banks of computers. Pars Net - one of south Tehran's hottest coffee nets, dishing up reasonable speed. It is on the eastern side of Ferdosi St, between Jomhuiyeh Eslami Ave and Enghelab Ave, across from the British embassy. They also provide fax and long-distance phone services. Coffee Net Firouzeh - In Tehran's south in the nice and very friendly Firouzeh Hotel Iranian Trade Centre - around Valiasr Square offers several Internet cafes (coffee nets). In addition to the above cafes, there are many others in all parts of the city. 3G and 4G internet connections With a copy of the information page of your passport and a copy of the page with Iranian entrance seal and also, your visa, you can buy SIM cards and access the internet with GPRS, EDGE, 3G and 4G technologies.

See also the warnings at Iran#Stay safe. Considering that the population of Tehran is around 15 million, it is still one of the safer cities to visit in global terms. Violent crime is rare and exercising common sense and taking the usual precautions against pickpockets in crowded areas should ensure a hassle-free visit. Most areas are safe even late at night, although it is not advisable to take a private taxi at 02:00 for example (but the lack of public nightlife means that few tourists would be out at that time in the first place). South Tehran (or the areas south of the Tehran Bazaar) is the only area that should really be avoided after dark, as some of the more deprived neighborhoods are there. Traffic in Tehran is very dangerous and should be considered to be among the worst in the world. Even though crossing the street might at first seem impossible, drivers usually do a very good job avoiding pedestrians. Still, try to cross the street when the locals do as there is safety in numbers. The rate of traffic accidents is disturbingly high, so faith should not be put on drivers' skills alone. thumbnail|Traffic congestion is very acute in Tehran and driving habits are dangerous. Exercise extreme caution when crossing the street. The fake police that have traditionally targeted tourists in Esfahan have also found their way to Tehran. These are usually uniformed men in unmarked cars flashing fake IDs and requesting to see your passport or to search through your luggage. You should ignore such requests and head to the nearest police station ("kalantari") if you feel unsafe.

If the hustle and bustle of Tehran becomes too much, it's possible to go to the Caspian Sea for a day or two. The holiday town of Ramsar is about five hours away, and the drive across the Alborz Mountains is spectacular. A taxi round-trip for a day shouldn't set you back more than 500,000 rials (ask for taxis near Azadi Square). Qom — about 2 hours away southwest of Tehran by bus and one hour by car (120 km) is the most religious city of Iran followed by Mashhad