Bodrum

thumb | 300px | Central Bodrum thumb | Windmills of Bodrum "Yokuş başına geldiğinde Bodrum'u göreceksin. Sanma ki sen geldiğin gibi gideceksin." "When you reach the hill, you will see Bodrum. Don't think you'll leave as you came." - The "blue voyages" of The Fisherman of Halicarnassus put Bodrum on the tourist map Bodrum was founded as a Grecian city, but fell under Persian rule from the 4th century BC; they appointed a hereditary provincial or regional governor called a "satrap". Nowadays this word is a political jibe, implying a corrupt and cruel petty ruler: in the movies the satrap always gets killed in the last act by his favourite concubine, who helps the hero escape at the cost of her own life. But one satrap more able than most was Mausolos, who ruled the province of Caria from this walled city called Halikarnassos, and he came to rule several others. However, he was sufficiently insecure about his legacy to commission a vast ornate tomb for himself, still unfinished at his death in 353 BC, and this gave us the word "mausoleum". Halikarnassos then fell in turn to Alexander the Great, Seleucid rulers, the Romans and Byzantines. The Knights Hospitaller arrived in 1402 and rebuilt the castle, which had stood on an islet but was now fused to the mainland. Waste not, want not; they used stone from the mausoleum for the castle and called it Petronium ("St Peter's fortress") - hence Bodrum. They scarpered in 1522 when Suleiman the Magnificent approached, and the town became Ottoman.

By plane thumb | Airport To town: package tourists are bused direct to their hotels. Bus 48-24 runs spasmodically from the airport to Bodrum intercity bus terminal (at Torba) and downtown. The Havas bus isn't running in 2023, as the taxi drivers are gleefully aware. You could also fly into İzmir or Dalaman airports, both 3 hours travel from Bodrum. By bus Buses from Istanbul take 11 hours overnight via Gebze, Bursa, Balıkesir, Manisa and Izmir. From Izmir it's an hourly service, from Ankara is 10 hours and from Antalya it's 7. Operators on these routes are MetroTurizm, Pamukkale and Flixbus. Aras Seyahat makes a grand cross-country journey daily, from Kars via Erzurum, Erzincan, Sivas, Kayseri and Konya. (lit: New Bus Station) opened in 2022, 5 km northeast of town, at the road junction for Torba. Already it's looking battered by its travelling public, and the cafe and toilets are overpriced. The dolmuş transfer into town should be included in your inter-city ticket; check when buying. is downtown next to the bazaar, and feels like part of it. By boat thumb | Marina Tilos Travel sails from Kos twice a day year-round, taking 25 min. It's a small catamaran for foot passengers only; a day-trip either way is easily possible. The landing pier in Bodrum is in the marina by the castle. Sky Marine compete on the route from Kos April-Oct, similar times and fares. Bodrum Feribot sail from Datça peninsula (Kairos Marina) 2 or 3 times daily June-Aug and four times a week Apr May Sept Oct. The crossing takes 1 hour 45 min. is where Med cruises dock.

thumb | Boats along the coastline Most town buses start from Yeni Otogar the inter-city bus terminal and run to downtown Bodrum, so this service is every couple of minutes. They then fan out across the peninsula: Bus 2-28 to Gümbet beach strip, Bitez, Müskebi, Ortakent and Camel Beach, every 20 min daily 07:00-00:00. Bus 2-34 to Gürece, İslamhaneleri, Akçaalan and Turgutreis, every ten minutes daily 07:00-00:00. Bus 2-45 to Gürece, Gümüşlük and Gümüşkaya, hourly daily 07:00-22:00. Bus 2-6 to Gökçebel and Yalıkavak every 20 min daily 07:00-22:00. Bus 2-48 to Bitez, every 15 min daily 07:00-21:30. Bus 2-2 to the western suburb of Konacık, every 15 min daily 07:30-23:00. Bus 2-4 to Konacık, Gürece, Bağla and Akyarlar at the south tip of the peninsula, M-Sa hourly 08:00-19:00. Bus 2-20 runs from Torba village via Yeni Otogar to downtown Bodrum, M-Sa every 30 min 07:00-20:00. Others run to Çamarası, Dağbelen, Gündoğan, Mazıköy, Mumcular, and Yalıçiftlik; the full list is posted on the Muttas regional transport website. A swarm of dolmuşes also reaches those destinations and others.

thumb | The castle thumb | Mosque Kızılhisarlı Mustafa Paşa Mosque just north of the castle was built in 1724. Merkez Adliye Mosque another block north was built in 1901. The marina, now full of leisure craft, was once the shipyard and general harbour. In the 18th century there was a spell of military work as the Ottoman navy was strengthened, but Bodrum's main product has long been the traditional gulet. These are two or three-masted but nowadays run on diesel, with only auxiliary sail power. Tepecik Mosque is at Neyzen Tevfik Cd 88, midway along the marina front. It was built in 1735. on Atatürk Cd has a richly tiled interior. thumb | The Mausoleum is the only survivor (if these two stumps can be called a survivor) of the monumental gates of the 7-km city wall of Halikarnassos. The area includes a short course of wall foundations and is free to explore 24 hours. Myndos, the destination of the road west, now lies buried beneath the coast resort of Gümüşlük. In its heyday, Myndos had such grand gates that Diogenes urged them to be shut, before the entire town got out. Wisecracks like this made him the doyen of the "cynic" school of philosophy. on Neyzen Tevfik Cd has interesting funerary monuments. (değirmenleri) in various states of dilapidation stand on the ridge west of the bay, in a line of seven. They were used from mid-18th century up to the 1970s to grind corn into flour. The area is free to stroll around and you mostly come here for the sunset view over the next bay, pity about all the trash. Similar windmills dot the peninsula beyond.

thumb |In the Amphitheatre Beaches in town are pebble but good for swimming. For sandy beaches go further west to Gümbet or Bitez. Hamam or Turkish baths are at Fabrika Sk 48 southeast side of the city bus station. They're segregated by gender with both sides open daily 07:00-23:00. Windsurfing is better on the more exposed west coast around Turgutreis, since the calm sheltered waters of Bodrum are its selling point. Scuba diving: Some half-a-dozen dive shacks offer day trips for qualified divers April-Sept. There are several shipwrecks, a Dakota DC47, rock formations (including Kara Ada) deepening into caverns, and eelgrass meadows with not much marine life - this is the Med. Bodrum is a good place for scuba training for its clear calm waters, and this includes advanced and specialty courses. Boat trips: some dozen companies offer trips by modern launch or traditional gulet. They're based around the marina but may pick up from other resort beaches. Football: Bodrumspor were relegated in 2025 and now play soccer in TFF First League, the second tier. Their Şehir Stadı (City Stadium, capacity 4500) is 500 m north of town centre towards Hwy D330. Modern & Jazz Festival and competition is held in April. Ballet Festival is July / Aug.

Lots of little convenience stores, there isn't a big shopping centre. Always haggle at street markets. For clothing you're aiming for half the quoted price.

thumb | Reconstruction of Uluburun wreck Bodrum catering is aimed at flesh-eating visitors. Most places serve halal as well as alcohol, but vegans and GF-ivores have limited choices. Downtown Orfoz at Zeki Müren Cd 13 is extolled in many guide books, but visitors find the food nothing special and the "tasting menu" little more than tapas. Gümbet

thumb | Bodrum coastline There is a vivid nightlife scene. Have no truck with ticket touts claiming that a particular pub or club has a special party tonight with some big name presiding. There will be no such thing. Körfez is a long established rock bar on the waterfront at Cumhuriyet Cd 59, open M-F 13:00-01:00, Sa Su 13:00-03:00. Funk is an open air club just north of Körfez, pricey and couples only. It's open nightly 21:00-04:00. Adamik is another old stager, just north of the castle and open 24 hours. Kule Rock City is a rock bar on Cumhuriyet Cd open 20:00-05:00, couples only. Club Catamaran east of the castle is on a large catamaran, with a glass deck for the dance floor. At night the boat putters out into the harbour where lights have been set into the ocean floor. Lights plus food scraps thrown overboard draw fish to swim beneath the glass floor. It's open nightly 21:30-03:00. Karnas Vineyards are in the hills 20 km northeast of town and have a restaurant.

thumb | Hotels along the coast Antique Theatre Hotel is a small mid-range place opposite the amphitheatre. Bodrium Hotel is a clean, friendly, budget hotel at Büyük İskender Cd 13, 100 m southwest of Myndos Gate. Bodrum Ecofarm camping and hostel. Camping from 300 pp, off season April 2024. Camping underneath orange and grapefruit trees. Take the bus 2-83 from Bodrum, takes 40 min. Gümbet The next bay west, 4 km from Bodrum city centre, with mostly budget accommodation Ali Baba is a basic but clean friendly place at 3144th Sk 24, east edge of Gümbet. Tosunoglu a block east is of similar standard. Siesta Beach are apartments next to Jasmine Beach. Hotel Bagevleri next to Serpina is of similar standard. Torba thumb | Torba Marina The north-facing coast, along the highway from the airport to Bodrum town, and near the inter-city bus terminal Further out thumb | Yalıkavak Marina

thumb | Lampoons like this 1921 cartoon got Cevat Şakir exiled to Bodrum Usual precautions about safeguarding valuables, swerving clear of drunks and lowlife, and beware traffic - including marine traffic, such as mad bats on jet skis. Keep children away from the many stray dogs. Turkey is considered high risk for rabies, so if you get bitten, you need immunising.

Bodrum, its approach roads and the peninsula have 4G from all Turkish carriers. 5G access is limited to the city center. Free WiFi could be found in public squares and cafes.

"Senden öncekiler de böyleydiler, Akıllarını hep Bodrum'da bırakıp gittiler . . ." "Don't think you'll leave as you came", continues the poem, "Others before you thought the same, as they departed they left their soul behind in Bodrum . . ." Bodrum Peninsula is lined by resort villages. The largest are Turgutreis, Gümüşlük and Yalıkavak. Kos is the Greek island 20 km southwest, often visited as a day-trip. Priene, Miletus and Didyma are three Greek ruins on the ridge 80 km north. Kuşadası is a big resort town just beyond that ridge, with must-see Ephesus 20 km further inland. Datça is an unspoilt town to the south across the Gulf of Gökova, accessible by ferries or a long detour via Marmaris.