Göreme

By plane Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV) is the closest, with flights from both Istanbul airports - in summer these are every couple of hours, taking 90 min. Most package tours to Cappadocia get in this way. It's 30 km north of Nevşehir town and has car hire; otherwise take a taxi. By road From Ankara head south on O-21 (toll). Exit at Alayhan, where a caravanserai recalls the tolls and tribulations of long-ago journeys, and follow D300 east to Nevşehir, then D302 into Göreme. By bus Every tourist town in Turkey markets package tours of Cappadocia. If you were based in one of the Antalya - Alanya coast resorts, that might be the most convenient option. Buses run frequently from Istanbul (10 hours) and Ankara (3 hours) to Nevşehir's grubby edge-of-town otogar, where you change for the dolmuş to Göreme. Bus lines on these routes are Metro Turizm, Flixbus and Nevşehir Seyahat. If they sell you a through ticket to Göreme you'll probably still have to change, but the onward ride should be included in your fare, check when buying. It's a similar story with inter-city buses from Konya (3½ hr), Alanya (9 hr), Antalya (9½ hr), Bodrum (13 hr), Canakkale (17 hr), Denizli (10 hr), Kusadasi (12 hr), Marmaris (13 hr), Pamukkale (10 hr), Selçuk (12 hr), Trabzon, and over the hills and far away. Kayseri 71 km east of Göreme has an airport and ponderously slow trains to eastern Turkey. Buses run every hour or two towards Nevşehir and points west, and from these you change at Avanos 18 km north of Göreme.

thumb | 300px | Fairy chimneys Walk, the town is small, and the open-air museum is within a 30 min walk. You need wheels for outlying sights such as Rose Valley, or you'll be tired and dust-caked before you get there. Consider organising a taxi ride or joining a tour.

Museumpass is a pass for government-run museums. The Cappadocia version is valid for 3 days from your first museum visit and costs €65 or 2000 TL in 2024. The only site it includes in Göreme is the Open Air Museum, and you'll have to gallop around the other towns to break even on it. Sunrise and sunset are the best times to see the rock formations, with the slanting light colouring them and casting deep shadows. Those are also the best times for balloon launches, as the winds are lightest - see below for some vantage points, but where they fly on any given day varies with conditions. You need a bright sky for the rock formations, overcast conditions turn them into dollops of porridge. If you go out at sunset, don't get caught by nightfall on unfamiliar rough ground. Halil Ağa Mosque just south of the bus station was built in 1254 AD. It's only open at prayer times. Bahceli Mosque next to it was built in 1377 AD. It's sadly derelict. Roman Castle 100 m south of the bus station is one of a pair of outcrops that resemble rotten fangs. It has a rock-cut Roman tomb; only the upper portions of its temple facade survive. Central Mosque (or Hacı Mustafa Ağa Mosque) is 200 m south of the bus station on Eminbey Sk. It was built in 1962 in traditional style. They have a stock of Korans in Japanese, just in case. Kasabası Mosque is on the parallel İsalı Cd. It was similarly built in 1968 in traditional Ottoman style. thumb | 300px | Plan of Open Air Museum (Aşıklar Tepesi) is a viewpoint 200 m southeast of town centre.

thumb | 300px | Balloons over Cappadocia Balloon rides: over 20 agencies offer these. You're picked up from your hotel pre-dawn and taken to the launch site. A standard flight carries some 20 passengers and lasts an hour, for about €250 pp in 2024. Then they give you breakfast and return you to your hotel. Watch the balloons: you need to be up early to get into position, as they launch at sunrise. Anywhere with lots of cars drawing up and folk setting up camera tripods is probably on the money, and for a distinctive photo you want balloons and fairy chimneys in the same frame. Try Aşıklar Tepesi the hill just east of town centre, or the trail north of Kaya Camping along the rim of Love Valley, or just south of the cafe down in Love Valley. This last is often the landing area, so you see them bunched together on launch then approaching over the rock formations. Hamam: Elis are trad Turkish baths and massage at Belediye Cd 1172, 100 m northeast of the bus station and open daily 10:00-22:00. Horse-riding: almost as many riding centres as there are balloon operators. Some rides are suitable for first-timers and young children. Para-gliding in tandems suitable for beginners is available through the same outlets as balloon rides, Hiking: Three valleys - Rose, Red and Meskendir - can be done as a combined hike of 5 hours. Be on the trail at dawn to avoid being frazzled in the afternoon sun and dust-soaked from groups in tour jeeps.

thumb | 300px | Frescoed church ceiling in Rose Valley Supermarkets: over a dozen around town centre. Opposite the otogar there are both a BIM and an A101. Open daily 09:00-21:00. Carpets: lots of shops, traditional carpets are made locally and prices beat those in Istanbul. Pottery is better bought in Avanos 18 km north, where it's a major industry. Think about the bumpy journey to get it home.

The town specialty is testi kebap, served in a clay pot that you break open. It takes an hour to cook so restaurants may need notice.

thumb | 300px | Inflating a balloon before daybreak Tea is the staple drink of Anatolia. Carpet and souvenir shops may invite you in for tea - trust your instincts on whether you'll be pestered once within. Red Red Wine House, Rupa Bar and Pasha Cafe are by the bus station. Try the local wine: it's mostly red.

Göreme has a huge selection of hostels, hotels, and guest houses (some 60 odd). The friendly (and tout-free) accommodation office can help you find something. Upmarket and boutique hotels also exist in Göreme. Many places include breakfast in these prices.

thumb | 300px | Pigeon Valley near Uçhisar Beware traffic and safeguard your valuables, same as anywhere else. Hiking is not strenuous or dangerous in general, but be careful on some steep footpaths and scrambles into and out of the valleys. Especially in winter the paths might be hidden under the snow or too slippery to go to. Some paths are on frozen rivers. Locals don't seem to be aware of the difficulties in winter. Be sure to wear watertight boots.

Göreme and its approach roads have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Nov 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

The other Cappadocia towns are all within a 30-minute dolmuş ride. Nevşehir the regional transport hub is the way to reach the underground cities of Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu. Kayseri east has several museums and old mosques, and is the route to travel further east.